Dogo Onsen

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My(Ichiro's) mother Michiko was born in Showa 6, so she is 78 years old (my father is 2 years elder than her). And she has some complaints(in eyes and feet), and Yuka strongly recommend me to bring them out for a trip. We are sorry but recently we close our store on Saturday, Sunday and national holidays because of depression, so we could take 3 days holiday on last weekend(sorry again for your inconvenience!). We decided to take our parents for a three days trip to Dogo Onsen. I have been there when I was a buyer of department store, and was strongly impressed by the nostalgic atmosphere. And when I saw 'Miyazaki's anime movie - Spirited Away(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirited_Away ), memory of Dogo Onsen revived vividly. Dogo onsen had the very similar image as onsen of the movie. If you like to experience RETRO type onsen- we recommend Dogo onsen. If I have to select only one onsen in Japan, I have to recommend Dogo Onsen(if you like modern and neat place, we may not recommend there). And I asked my mother whether she had been there, and got to know she had not been there yet. We called my sister (my younger sister, 'Secchan') and invited her family too. Dogo Onsen is in Shikou Island, and we had to drive more than 6 hours from our house. Between Shikoku and Hack 2 giant bridges are spanned, and the toll fare is very expensive (4100yen for a car). We didn't know till we reached Dogo, reduced rate for the holidays began from the day we left for Shikoku. For the economic stimulus policy, 4100 yen reduced to 1000yen. Because of this reduction, news said the traffic became double compared to usual year, and service area was crowded. Dogo Onsen Honkan was also very crowded, and it also had to be because of it.

We stayed Dogo Prince Hotel, which was the only hotel we could reserve. Both our daughters and Secchan's daughters also went with us, so we became a large party(9 members). Hot water of hot spring are gathered and divided to some hotels in Dogo, so we could enjoy the hotel's onsen(they are wonderful!), but Dogo Onsen Honkan ( public bath ) is the special place.

Hot springs of Dogo Onsen was said to be used from 300 years ago. Dogo Onsen Honkan was built around Meiji 30( 1900 ), and Emperor also visited and took a bath there. Its wooden building is as it was, and each rooms there also have very nostalgic atmosphere The building is designated as a nationally important cultural property. We can take a bath, but also can take a rest on the second floor of the building wearing yukata! It is really a special kind of gorgeous experience, which I couldn't forget for more than 20 years.

There are two kinds of baths - Kaminoyu and Tamanoyu. Two large main baths for both male and female are called Kaminoyu, which local people and repeaters like. Tamonoyu is smaller than it, and the bath and wall are made of granite. It is calm and visitors often like it. On the second floor, there are couple of large tatami rooms, and we can take rest there ( you need ticket as below). Yukata and towel is prepared in visitors' each basket, and after the bath, Japanese tea with samba sweet is served. This rest time was the one of the best onsen experience of mine. Taking photos is not allowed, so we can't introduce inside part by photos. However, there are some photos in the official page.

Emperor's special bath and room(and toilet!) are named Yushinden, and visitors can see gorgeous interior. Here is the photos of Emperor's bath.

http://www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp/dogojimu/1174481_1023.html

Taisho and Showa Emperor came here, and took a bath but without undressing-that is their tradition, and sit on bathtub and soaked only their under body, and follows poured hot water. We are astonished by the gorgeous interior, but at a time, we felt slight sympathies that they had not to be able to be relaxed with such way and in this special bath tub. When our family went Dogo Onsen Honkan in the evening of the first day, it was very crowded and we could only take a bath at Kaminoyu, and couldn't take rest in the second floor. Next day, it was still holiday, so we went there very early in the morning, and went to Tamanoyu and took rest in the second floor. It was the same as I experienced more than 20 years ago, and of course, Michiko and all members loved it!

Also for the other visitors, we would like to visit Dogo Onsen Honkan in the not-crowded time, and enjoy their atmosphere enough.

There are several kinds of tickets.

Ticket of Kaminoyu (1)bath only 400yen(child 150yen)

+ 6:00 - 23:00 ( last entrance 22:30)
++ within 1 hour
+++Soap and shampoo are not prepared.

(2)bath and rest on the second floor(includes rental yukata, towel, Japanese tea and senbei sweet ) 800yen(child 400yen)

+ second floor 6:00 - 22:00 ( last entrance 21:00 )
++ within 1 hour
+++Soap and shampoo are not prepared.

Ticket of Tamanoyu

(3)bath and rest on the second floor (includes rental yukata, towel, Japanese tea and senbei sweet) 1200yen (child 600yen)

+ 6:00 - 22:00 ( last entrance 21:00 )
++ within 1 hour
+++Soap and shampoo are prepaired.
++++Viewing of Yushinden is free. 

(4)bath and rest in the private room on the third floor (includes rental yukata, towel, Japanese tea and Bocchan dango sweet) 1500yen(child 750yen)

+ 6:00 - 22:00 ( last entrance 20:40 )
++ within 1h. and 20 m.
+++Soap and shampoo are prepaired.
++++Viewing of Yushinden is free. 

Yushinden (5)250yen(child 120yen)

Because of Michiko's feet problem, we only went Dogo Onsen Honkan and zoo during 3 days stay. However, it was VERY happy time for our family.

Around the Dogo Onsen, there are many sightseeing spots. Tobe is famous for their Tobeyaki pottery ( beautiful ai color sometsuke porcelain), and Matsuyama Castle's tenshukaku(main building) was built in Edo period. One of my friend opened antique kimono shop recently in the second floor of Dogo Onsen Station, and you can rent a kimono for walking this onsen town.

Dogo Onsen is really worth to visit though it is little bit far from Osaka. ( If you have some information about and around Dogo Onsen, please let us know. We would like to introduce them on our blog site.)

Official page top: http://www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp/dogojimu/1174363_1023.html

Outside of the building: http://www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp/dogojimu/1174465_1023.html

Photos of Kaminoyu(upper ones) and Tamanoyu (lower ones) http://www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp/dogojimu/1174479_1023.html

Photos of Yushinden ( Emperor's bath room) http://www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp/dogojimu/1174481_1023.html

By the way, there are many onsen all over Japan, and there were some troubles about medical and sanitary affairs( fatal accident by Legionella). Many visitors soak in the same bath tub, so hot water must be carefully clean. There also is a different kinds of problem - owners of ryokan and onsen want to advertise their bath as 'onsen', but 'What onsen is?' If 'cold ' water springs,can it be still called 'onsen'? If it can be, from what temparature can it be said as onsen? If the water is very pure like almost tap water, do people think it still onsen? There is 'Onsen Law', and its definition allows to call 'onsen' even if temparature is not hot, but the water must springs and includes some material touch.

Even though the 'Onsen Law' was made, but debates about onsen conitnues. And now Japanese people think 'gensen kakenagashi' onsen is the best. 'Gensen' means 'pure discharge water', which is not added water from different place. 'Kakenagashi' means 'hot water in the bath is not circulated'. Many onsens without enough hot discharge water add water, boil it and circulate the water, which is sanitized.It was very reasonable that people noticed it, and began to select genuine 'onsen'.

Hot water of Dogo Onsen is 'gensen kakenagashi'. However, after the affairs,they began to add chlorine to their hot water. Onsen mania are sorrowful about it, and say "chlorine slightly smell in the bath!", although I didn't notice it. We imagine that amount of discharge is not enough to keep clean for too many visitors.

Map of Shikoku

Original text was written by Yuka 30/March/2009

http://www.ichiroya.com/blog/Ichiro/20090330#1 This site is hosted by http://www.ichiroya.com

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Original text is written by Ichiro 30th March 2009. You can read the original text in this frozen page Dogo Onsen(Original) This site is hosted by ICHIROYA